There’s a place on Geary called… I don’t remember the name, but it’s in the middle of a Chinese district, up a ways from Golden Gate Park. If you get there early you buy PBR for a dollar and watch the television that shows old kung-fu movies while you wait for the place to fill. If you’re smart you claim a couch and get comfortable. Face the door and watch people file in, often in twos but sometimes less or more. Just watch them. If you get through the night and see even one grin I’ll buy you a beer.